Once, this city was the capital of the greatest empire the world has ever known, ringing the Mediterranean and stretching from the deserts of the Middle East all the way up to Hadrian’s Wall in England. Asserting power and influence across great swathes of the ancient world, the Romans built aqueducts to channel water for public baths, latrines, and fountains, plus an extensive network of over 250,000 miles of highways radiating out from the capital. Famously, “all roads led to Rome.”
While the empire ended in the 5th century, the Italian capital still maintains many monuments to those glory days. The Colosseum, completed in A.D. 80, remains the largest amphitheater on earth. The ruins of the Roman Forum, once the city’s bustling center of trade and commerce, still retains many of its pillars and archways spreading across Palatine Hill. Later additions also delight, such as Michelangelo’s masterpiece on the ceiling of the nearby Sistine Chapel; the soaring dome of St Peter’s Basilica, one of the holiest sites in Catholicism; and Trevi Fountain, where visitors gather and press in, four deep, to toss a coin which promises to ensure their return.
Try Trastevere
This city of 3 million has plenty of tucked-away places to cool your heels when you’re ready for something a little different. For example: Trastevere. Its name meaning, literally, “beyond the Tiber,” this increasingly trendy neighborhood is separated from the rest of Rome by the Tiber River—and has long been a place apart.Multi-cultural and working class for most of its history, the tiny, winding cobblestone laneways here once marked this district’s poverty—too narrow for fancy carriages. They’re now lined with cool little boutiques, the tables out front arrayed with niche items: funny hats and cool trinkets and hand-woven blankets. Ivy climbs the walls while sidewalk trattorias serve up steaming pasta.
Come here to get lost on the cobblestones. Along the way, pop into the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, a church that dates back to the 4th century, to enjoy the Pietro Cavallini mosaics. Two other sites—the Renaissance-era Villa Farnesina and the baroque Galleria Corsini—sit across from one another. Both house masterpieces—the former, frescos by Raphael, the latter, works by Titian and Caravaggio.
But do your best to keep the plans limited and just wander—here, it’s a pleasure to get lost. And when you tire, take your pick of many patio restaurants serving up cool spritzes. When in Rome, do as the Romans do: A late afternoon break with this distinctive drink that combines Aperol, Prosecco, club soda, and an orange slice, is a favorite late afternoon activity here.
Go to the Gardens
While the city is not known for its green spaces, the Botanical Garden of Rome is just a short walk away. Rome is hectic and heated. These gardens are the perfect escape. On a recent visit, on a particularly steamy day, I was happy to find a bench and a little refreshment in the shade.But there’s plenty more to see here. An urban enclave covering about 30 acres, the garden’s lands once belonged to a 17th century queen of Sweden and is located next to a university named for the Italian explorer John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto). As you walk through the gates, the green envelopes you and the temperature seems to drop several degrees in just a few seconds. Explore the Japanese garden, Mediterranean garden, rose garden, and one of the richest collections of bamboo in Europe. Ducking into the greenhouses is also worthwhile: One contains more than 400 species of orchid; plus, there are bubbling fountains and meandering pathways, and a tent that flutters with butterflies.
After my afternoon garden reverie, I spent the next couple days finding hidden corners of the city. I walked among subterranean bones at the catacombs, popped into shops along the bustling Via del Corso, and enjoyed the breezes and sweeping views from the massive, rambling hilltop park around Villa Borghese. Along the way, I drank from the “nasoni”—literally, “big nose”—2,500 free water fountains that channel fresh springs from nearby mountains, the cold water pouring from a curved metal spout protruding (nose-like) from the front.
Treat Yourself at Trattoria della Stampa
And after days of fast meals on the fly—quick but delicious pizzas on patios, lovely sandwiches in the park—it was time for a really excellent sit-down meal. A typical tourist spot wouldn’t do. I drilled down, researching little hole-in-the-wall spots within walking distance of my hotel.One stood out: Trattoria della Stampa, located on a back lane. As I approached, I noticed that outside the door they’d displayed the fresh vegetables and herbs they planned to use for that night’s dinner. A table presented big boxes of spring onions and basil and cucumbers and, of course, tomatoes.
Under a curved roof, in a vaguely cavern-like space, chef Roberto Cavalli sliced meat and set tiramisu at a little prep station that, for all intents and purposes, is right in the middle of the restaurant. First, I dove into the food, a caprese salad with the freshest, creamiest buffalo mozzarella I have ever tasted; followed by simple, beautiful pastas, including cacio e pepe, carbonara, and amatriciana, three of Rome’s signature dishes.
Then, a chat with the chef was in order. He quietly joined me out in the lane, and I asked him about his culinary creations. Turns out, he’s a former professional soccer player who turned to the kitchen after retiring, earning a Michelin star along the way.
