Uncle Vanya Café

Russia is a vast country full of people with different nationalities and diverse cultures from the Slavs to Tatars creating subcultures blending East and West.

And so Russian food is a collaboration of different ethnic foods. One can find hundreds of different types of Borscht, depending from which part of the country. There is also European effect on the cuisine because, at that time, the rich had their private chefs from France and other parts of Europe. Then you have the effect of the Georgian cuisine - shish kebabs and then the game and fish. Russia is extremely rich with fish as well. Because of harsh weather in different parts of Russia, you will see dried, pickled, salted, and dried meats and fish for example.

Uncle Vanya Café is a warm, friendly and down-to-earth restaurant located in Hell’s Kitchen in Manhattan. The moment I entered Uncle Vanya, I was transposed to a scene from the movie Dr. Zhivago before the communist revolution in Russia. Although simple, the place is dim and unpretentious while the walls are full of paintings of local artists the owner helps promote. I was taken there by a good friend of mine, a Countess from the Russia of old. She had been frequenting Uncle Vanya Café for many years.

The place is also frequented by celebrities, famous actors, diplomats, musicians, Olympic champions, and painters. It is a place where you would want to escape to and forget all the pressures of the day. The owner was a famous actress in Russia who’s dream was to own a restaurant. I was a bit confused as to why. The owner, Marina, told me that as an actress she had to maintain a certain weight. She said that most of the time she would sit at the dining table with one slice of cheese and slowly slice it, one bit at a time, to eat it. It would take her about 30 minutes to finish it and so she always fantasized that one day she will have her own restaurant. She learned cooking from her husband who was a good cook.

My friend, the Countess recommended that we start with few appetizers—a traditional way of Russian dining. We had the beets salad, the Russian Style Herring with home fried potatoes, the pickled plate of cucumbers, Russian coleslaw, and mushrooms, which are classical dishes of Russia. It is highly recommended that you order few dishes to savor over the different exotic taste of Russian Cuisine. My friend, the Contessa’s favorite dish is the herrings, which are salted and then marinated. She was savoring every bit of it while sipping her vodka. Smilingly, she told me that vodka is better than fermented liquor.

We then had the Cabbage Kulibiaka, a mixture of cabbage and eggs inside pastry dough served warm, Blini with smoked salmon accompanied with sour cream and dill. Of course, my countess friend told me, “Nothing happens in Russia without dill.” We also had the stuffed cabbage topped with dill. You can also have the salmon with pumpernickel bread, a very common bread of Russia that is made on premises. For desert, do not miss the cheese patties with sour cherries.

The Verdict: Hearty, down to earth, comfort food at very reasonable prices. A place to escape to with friends.
A three-course meal ranges between $20.00 and $37.00 without the vodka.

Uncle Vanya is open Monday through Thursday, noon to11 p.m., Friday and Saturday noon until midnight and Sunday noon to 10 p.m. (212) 262-0542