Thalassa

Greece has one of the most interesting geography in the Aegean Sea. It has almost three thousand islands, the ninth longest coastline in the world and very high mountains (Pindus), hills, and lakes, which comprise most of the land. Goats, sheep, and fish are the preferred diet there, since most of its people live very close to the sea. Ancient Greece is also known for its myths and legends and the many stories about its gods and heroes. Thalassa, for example is from the Greek Mythology, known as the primeval goddess of the Sea.

Thalassa is also a grand restaurant housed in an historic Tribeca warehouse owned by the masters of Greek food, the Makris Family, who own Fantis Foods and, at Thalassa, you will be treated to one of the freshest and best imported foods a restaurant can serve. As you walk into a space that is bright and airy, you will feel as if you have boarded a ship or a yacht ready to sail the Aegean Sea with the white sails hanging over the bar area. The bar is long, curved and made with white marble and mosaic with blue mood lighting and sheer curtains flowing around. On the side is a colorful display of fish that is flown daily from the Mediterranean and other parts of the world. Almost all ingredients are flown in from Greece.

Traditional Greek cuisine goes back thousands of years and, because of its history and geography, it has been influenced by other cuisines such as Italian, Balkan, Ottoman, and Middle Eastern. Its landscape is abundant with produce, meats, and fish making Greek cuisine flexible, diverse, hearty, rich, and healthy. Most common ingredients used are olive oil, garlic, herbs, nuts, and grains. Over the years, Greek Cuisine developed its own distinct character.

Food has no boundaries, and cooking is an art. Chef Rapheal, a native New Yorker of Hispanic background, developed a passion for seafood and contemporary Greek cuisines. He started with Thalassa as sous when it first opened in 2002 and was promoted to an executive chef in 2007. Today Rapheal offers a modern twist on classic Greek recipes with respect for the freshness and simplicity, using flavorful herbs, seasonal vegetables, and extra virgin olive oil. He said that although he created new dishes, his inspiration is the continuous discovery of old Greek recipes. His philosophy is to keep flavors simple and let the ingredients shine, and if you over complicate food, the flavors become muddled.

One cannot but notice that. Oil and olives with special bread is served while having a cocktail or sipping on a glass of Greek wine carefully selected by the owners of the restaurant, who have an impressive and extensive collection of Greek wines with special offerings from countries around the world. There are 12,000 bottles including more than 700 wine labels to choose from with about 5,000 bottles housed in a climate-controlled wine room in the cellar below. This beautifully designed room is frequently used for private parties and special events.  

The focus here is keeping the ingredients natural and healthy— reflected in the menu and the first to break away from “fish by the pound.” The service is friendly, attentive, unobtrusive, and professional in a very comfortable surroundings without pretense or attitude.

You can then start with the chef’s creation of Maine Diver Scallops Wrapped in Kataifi Smothered with Sheep’s Mild Butter and Kalamata Balsamic Reduction. There is a delightful array of flavors and textures. This is a must have for the experience itself.

Another interesting dish was the Lamb Shank Ravioli, which is a first for me. This is an example of Italian cuisine influence, the inclusion of pasta with a light tomato sauce fresh from the Mediterranean. The lamb was a bit bland and the chef may consider adding more spices or seasonings. However, it is creative. Beside the seafood and the lamb, one must try some of the Greek cheeses. The Baby Arugula with Graviera Cheese special to the island of Crete with sweet and nutty flavor served with beets, walnuts, and honey oregano dressing would be a good choice as part of the meal. The main course, of course, is a Mediterranean sea bass cooked in its natural juices and slightly seasoned with thyme, oregano, fennel, and rosemary, and other herbs. This fish is extremely different from the fish we are used to. It has a sweet flavor with firm white flesh. The fish was delicately and simply displayed on a white platter with a few asparagus.

Make sure you leave room for deserts. Chocolate lovers can have The Valrhona Chocolate Crepes, Ekmek-Kataifi & Creme with Pistachios, or you can try the Bougasta. They all taste wonderful or a selection of Artisanal Greek cheeses paired with desert wine. If you prefer fruits try the poached pear.

The Verdict: A visit to Thalassa removes you from the grit of city life to a place where comfort and nourishment were uncomplicated.

Thalassa is located at 179 Franklin Street, (Between Hudson & Greenwich Streets), New York, NY 10013 (212) 941-7661 Web site: thalassanyc.com
Reservations recommended.
All major credit cards accepted. Dress casual.
At Thalassa, Lunch entrees range from $12.95 to $19.95.
There is a 3-Course Prix Fix Lunch Menu available for $24.07.
Dinner entrees range from $28.00 up to $46.
The restaurant is open weekdays for lunch and six nights a week for dinner (closed on Sunday).
Thalassa private rooms ideal for private and business events.