L'Absinthe Brasserie-Restaurant

From the ambiance to the food, the whole experience will give one a sense that you have stepped into Paris and back in time—a sense of timelessness and tradition.
L'Absinthe Brasserie-Restaurant
The interior of L'Absinthe Brasserie, a Persian restaurant at 227 East 67th Street, New York (Courtesy of L'Absinthe)
12/26/2008
Updated:
10/1/2015
<a><img src="https://www.theepochtimes.com/assets/uploads/2015/09/InteriorofLAbsynthe.jpg.jpg" alt="The interior of L'Absinthe Brasserie, a Persian restaurant at 227 East 67th Street, New York  (Courtesy of L'Absinthe)" title="The interior of L'Absinthe Brasserie, a Persian restaurant at 227 East 67th Street, New York  (Courtesy of L'Absinthe)" width="320" class="size-medium wp-image-1832108"/></a>
The interior of L'Absinthe Brasserie, a Persian restaurant at 227 East 67th Street, New York  (Courtesy of L'Absinthe)

The Art Nouveau lamplights (lampadaires) right by the entrance tell one that there is a lot to be explored in this place: from the ambiance to the food, the whole experience will give one a sense that you have stepped into Paris and back in time—a sense of timelessness and tradition.

The atmosphere—a typical Parisian brasserie-restaurant—with beautiful chandeliers, black and white floor tiles, authentic zinc bar, dark wood, and leather seats with plants all around create a charming and relaxing atmosphere to enjoy your meals while listening to Edith Piaf singing in the background.

This place would have been frequented by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Oscar Wilde, Vincent Van Gogh, or modern-day celebrities to discuss the latest happenings in the art world—over a meal or gathered around the absinthe fountain (anise-flavored liqueur), known as the “Green Fairy” because of its ability to inspire writers and artists and its mystical influence on those who drank it.

That is exactly what owner/chef Jean-Michel Bergougnoux wanted to recreate in the Upper East Side of New York City—a timeless and charming 19th century brasserie.

Jean Michel, a well-trained and experienced chef, has worked in the most prestigious kitchens around the world—including London, Lyon, Copenhagen, and New York. With the help of executive chef Luc Holie, they have managed to bring a creative gastronomic innovation by skillfully and delicately marrying the old and the new, resulting in a wonderful culinary experience. Very humbly and with a smile, Jean-Michel said to me that although “we have French classic and French nouveau on the menu. I find that I am more inclined to do classic French dishes, which is not necessarily good, but if the recipe is good, why change it?”

The food is uncomplicated and delicious. The style is distinct to that of Lyon, France’s third largest city. Lyonnais cuisine is about the quality of produce, cheese, pork, blood sausage, and foie gras that is reflected in the menu. The menu is divided into two sections: the classics and the seasonal—from the classic Coq Au Vin to the Orange-Marinated and -Glazed Black Cod.

The service is attentive and friendly, close but not too close, with respect to your space and privacy.

My friend and I sank into our seats as we were seated while “La Vie en Rose” was softly playing in the background. At last! A place with soft music in the background. A wonderful way to escape to from the hassles of the day.

For starters, my friend ordered the Snails Gratines over Shitake while I had the Vache de Chalais cheese, baked in a pocket of brique pastry with Prosciutto, Basil, and Sundried Tomatoes served over Frisée salad. Fabulous blend of flavors and textures. This was accompanied by a nice glass of Chenin Blanc.

We then had the Duck Leg Confit Served Crispy with Chestnuts accompanied by sautéed potatoes. Here is where one can see the art of cooking—slow-cooked duck leaving the skin crispy. A dry, hearty, full-bodied wine—a Chateau Peyros was recommended with the duck. I had the Sole Meunière—a classic Dover sole that was cooked to perfection—with every bite you are transcended to a different level.

The dessert is yet another experience not to be missed and for tea or coffee lovers, you are in the right place. The dessert menu comes with exotic teas and gourmet coffee. The dessert menu also has two sections: the classic desserts and the seasonal desserts, all made in house by pastry chef Pierre Poulin. The desserts were superb. We had the Warm Crust Dark Chocolate Cake With Caramelized Bananas and Rum Sorbet, and the Profiteroles à La Vanille, Sauce Chocolate—both were gorgeous—up and right.

Although it was lunch time, the place was vibrant. It has its followers and is frequented by celebrities and neighborhood regulars.

Check average: lunch $40, dinner $75 to 80, seasonal brunch three-course $33.

The verdict: A stellar experience in “The Gem of the Upper East Side.”
 
L'Absinthe Brasserie-Restaurant is located at 227 East 67th Street, New York, NY 10021. Open seven days a week. Monday through Saturday: Lunch: noon to 3 p.m.; Dinner: 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Sunday brunch: noon to 3 p.m.; Sunday dinner: 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Major credit cards accepted. Reservations are requested at (212) 794-4950 or through opentable.com. Web site: labsinthe.com.





L’heure Verte at L’Absinthe

L’Heure Verte (the green hour) originated in an area in Paris, Montmartre, a center of Bohemian lifestyle and where artists, writers, and poets would meet daily to socialize and talk about arts and literature over a glass of absinthe, an extremely potent spirit referred to as the “green fairy,” which inspired writers, artists, and poets.

As a tribute to that history, L’Absinthe Brasserie-Restaurant revives that tradition of L’Heure Verte from 9 p.m. to 11 p.m. daily. You will be served absinthe the way it was served 100 years ago with an absinthe fountain. The fountain is filled with ice, and for every ounce of absinthe, three to four ounces of water is poured into a reservoir glass, until the fountain is chilled. A spoon (la cuillère) is placed over the reservoir glass with a sugar cube (le sucre) resting on the spoon. The fountain’s spout drips ice water over the sugar cube, melting it slowly into the absinthe, giving the liquid a milky opalescence called la louche. By adding water, the herbs in the absinthe are released, balancing the liquor’s prominent anise flavor.

The sale of absinthe was prohibited in 1915 in France, and the United States banned its importation in 1912 due to its thujone content. In 2007, the United States lifted its importation ban of absinthe provided its thujone levels are sufficiently low. Absinthe was originally made in Switzerland and quickly became popular throughout Europe with France consuming 36 million liters a year.

It can be enjoyed as an aperitif or a digestive. There are about 10 different kinds of absinthe with a price range of $12 to $16 per glass.

 

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