“You do not have to be vegan, and we can do it your way,” said cheerful owner and chef Amanda Cohen. Amanda also told me that the name “Dirt Candy” comes from nature and “that vegetables are amazing —made out of little more than water, sunlight, and dirt—they wind up growing into a candy store full of color and flavor. And that’s what I want Dirt Candy to be: nature’s candy store. I want this place to be all about my food.”
Indeed, that is what Amanda creates: wonderful, complex, and exotic flavors from vegetables in a very colorful and artistic way. It is not easy to cook vegetarian. I guess if it were so, most of us would be eating that wonderful and healthy food, but Amanda is a chef who makes great food by making wonderful creation of flavors in a straightforward yet bold and unique style. The place is intimate and made of recycled and sustainable materials. Smiling and humbly standing by our table, Amada told me that she wants her guests to feel as if she were entertaining them at her home. Her staff, which includes herself, a sous chef, and a waiter, would give each guest personalized attention—from greeting to advice regarding the fare.
The menu, although vegetarian and small, does not miss anything and is accompanied with a superb wine list. The wine can be purchased by the half glass ($3 to $5), glass ($6 to $13), or by the bottle ($19 to $54).
All ingredients are fresh and masterfully prepared and presented. Colorful, simple, yet elegant in both flavor and presentation at reasonable prices. The items on the menu change often depending on what is available at the market. Oh, how I wished the place would have been bigger so that more people could enjoy it! But Amanda said that Dirt Candy is all about her cooking. For the vegetarian and non-vegetarian as well, it will be a playful experience with one pleasant surprise after another.
And so my friend and I started with the Jalapeno Hush Puppy Poppers served with maple butter ($6) and shared Portobello Mousse Fennel Peach Compote ($11), Spinach Soup with Smoked Tofu Dumplings Lemon Confit, Water Chestnuts, and Pistachio Oil ($13). I must say that these were brilliantly prepared. The soup had a beautiful translucent green color I have never seen before—and take your time in savoring every bite. If you thought vegetarian food was boring, Dirt Candy will make you reconsider.
Who said that vegetarian food is boring?
Dirt Candy,
430 East 9th Street, New York, N.Y. 10009,
(212) 228-7732.
Open Tuesday through Saturday, from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Casual.
Reservations are recommended