Capsouto Freres—Bistro Restaurant

As you walk in, you will immediately be taken back in time—when gentlemen wore ties and jackets and seated the ladies first. It is a rare place where you can hear nice classical music and still be able to talk. A place that still maintains that old traditional family business since its founding in 1980 by three very hospitable brothers: Jacques, Samuel, and Albert. This is a definite place to escape to either by yourself, or in a big celebration, a tête-à-tête, or to impress your clients.

The place is lit by old-fashioned chandeliers, the very large windows covered with large green plants, the ceilings high with old wooden beams, and the walls with old brick—giving it that sense of timelessness and agelessness.

This eclectic French bistro is situated at the corner of Watts and Washington Street in the Lower West Side of Manhattan, in the 1891 Fleming Smith landmark building, which the Capsouto brothers converted 28 years ago to a classy and warm bistro, and winning the hearts and palates of its New York and international diners.

Capsouto Frere offers a wonderful variety of simple yet sophisticated and elegant dishes from all over France. The chef, Jerome Charpentier, has worked in famous places in London, Paris, and New York and is known for his traditional French cooking with a contemporary twist.

With a superb wine collection of carefully selected by Jacques from all over the world, including Israel, Capsouto Frere has won numerous awards by Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast, and is constantly winning awards by Zagat’s and Mobil. Speaking of Israeli wines, Jacques told us, “When the Romans wanted the best wines, they would drink the Jerusalemite wine.” Not only is Jacques a wine enthusiast, he knows everything you want to know about it and its history.

As you begin to relax and enjoy this atmosphere, you will be warmly greeted and escorted to your table. Immediately, you will be welcomed with something different—a wonderful piece of warm quiche—while for starters, we had two of the signature dishes: the caramelized funnel with cooked orange grind over frisée and the zucchini blossoms with goat cheese. Both were excellent but the fennel dish is very delicious—a fabulous contrast of flavors, that of the crunchy orange peel and then the fennel taste gently sneaking in.

We were then teased with yet another flavorful and traditional French dish that will make the gourmand’s taste buds very happy: the Terrine Provençale with smoked mozzarella and goat cheese. Its delicateness with the touch of smokiness from the cheese gives a great experience to your palate.

A traditional gourmand will be very happy to see this menu. The main course is comprised of few signature dishes. One of my favorites is the Daube de Boeuf Bourguignon, which is very hearty and traditional meal but, somehow, I opted for the Aged Sirloin Steak au Poivre, which was perfectly prepared. The steak was grilled and smothered with pepper sauce. This brought back some wonderful memories of the past, which, I think, is what the menu is supposed to do. My friend, who wanted the feeling of being in Marseille Harbor, ordered the succulent Bouillabaisse with mussels, clams, shrimp, scallops, and monkfish. She is well traveled and very sophisticated, and that is what she thought of the dish. It was a delight watching how much she savored every bite.

The ingredients are fresh, the ambiance is great, and so is the service. You can eat without the feeling of heaviness. Somehow, we seemed to have space left for the dessert. Of course, you must have the soufflé. In case you did not know, this place is known for it. It is referred to as the “Soufflé Sanctuary.” There are different types and flavors, but since it was the end of fig season, it was recommended that we have the fig soufflé with Walnut Crème Anglaise.
I have had many soufflés in famous places in Europe and at friends’ homes, who claim that they make great soufflé, but I must say that this one is out of this world and not to be missed. It is fluffy, light, and tasty. You can savor every bit of it and feel as if you have not had any. You never have enough of it. Another one incredible dessert, zesty, and very flavorful, and a must is the Apple Tarte Tatin, which was delightful. What a way to end your meal!

Of course, I should have suggested wine pairing with the meal, but I thought that it would be best to discuss with the expert Jacques for his recommendations.

Capsouto Freres is celebrating its 28th anniversary drawing. Entries accepted until Dec. 24, 2008.

The Verdict:  A WINNER. From the soup to nuts, everything was superb.

A 3-course meal for one is between $37 and $74 not including wine.

A prix fixe (3 courses) is available nightly for $39 and an outstanding weekend brunch for $24.

Capsouto Freres is open every evening for dinner, Tuesday through Friday for lunch, and for Saturday and Sunday brunch.

The restaurant is available for private parties, events, and catering.
(212) 966-4900 or www.capsoutofreres.com